Andy in the Rockies

Trip reports, videos, and photos from hiking, climbing,
and mountaineering adventures in Colorado and beyond.

Mountain Blog

Arapaho Peaks TraverseI created this blog to record my thoughts, dreams, hopes, and plans regarding all things mountains and climbing. It may be of little interest to anybody else, but oh well... If you get bored stop reading.


May 13, 2008 ~ Site Upgrades

I've added a wish list of peaks and routes I'd like to knock out with their respective mountainproject.com and summitpost.org links.

I've also begun to upgrade the maps for the trips. I'm using google maps to add multiple points of interest and the path that was traveled. It'll take me a while to update all the trips but I have already begun to update the more interesting ones - like CMC Route on Mount Moran.

May 12, 2008 ~ Pacific Peak

George Barnes was up on Pacific Peak's West Ridge over the weekend. This is of interest to me because Pacific Peak's north couloir is pretty high on my spring to-do list.

George took this great photo looking down the couloir: http://www.gb4mfg.com/mtn/trip_reports/pacific_5-11-08/IMGP6075.JPG.

You can see all the photos he took here: http://www.gb4mfg.com/mtn/Pacific_5-11-08.html.

May 7, 2008 ~ Long time no blog...

I know it's been a long time since I wrote anything here and I debated just doing away with the whole blog thing. But I decided I'll try and give it one more go.

The spring snow climbing season has started a bit late this year due to weird snow patterns and crazy high wind. But things are finally starting to settle and I hope to start getting into the big mountains again soon.

My friends are starting to do some cool things too. Two recent trips to note are James Just and Brian Kraus ascent of Martha Couloir on Mountain Lady Washington and James ascent a week later of Mount Bancroft's East Ridge.

May 7, 2008 ~ The Danimal leads The Fang!

The ice season went long in Vail and Dan "The Danimal" Dalton was able to get up there one last time to lead The Fang! He didn't quite make it to the top, but still, it's an impressive achievement. Scott Borger went along and got some sweet photos. Check 'em out on Dan's web site.

November 13, 2007 ~ The Woo

This past Saturday I went with rock climbing with some friends at Vedauwoo, Wyoming. That place is really cool! Besides the excellent rock climbing the camping looks pretty good and there is fun hiking and scrambling all over the place. I've already decided that I need to come back next spring with the whole family for a camping trip. It could be an ideal place for my son Jackson's first camping trip - decent car camping, not too far from home if the things go sour, and there is lots of fun hiking for me to lug him around on. He won't be walking at that point but hopefully he'll enjoy riding around in the backpack.


November 5, 2007 ~ Blitzen Ridge FA

Last week I received the following note from Charles Ehlert (currently of Seattle, WA):

Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. Many years ago (about Sept 1958) Phil Ritterbush, Clint Brooks, Jim Walker, Dave Fedson and I (students at Yale at the time) did the first ascent of the Blitzen Ridge. We were slow, got to the summit just before dark. Spent a cold night out, wrapped up in a climbing rope - not that it did any good... Walked down to Fall River Pass in the morning and hitch-hiked down. We named the two ridges "Donder" and "Blitzen" ridges - thunder and lightening. It's fun to read of others' adventures up there, remembering that great day all those years ago...

When my buddies and I did it we were armed with beta from at least three guidebooks, a couple of websites, numerous trip reports from friends and acquaintances, and I'd bean up Donner Ridge before and had our descent doped out. It's hard to imagine what an adventure the onsite FA must have been! Nowadays you have to be able to climb 5.12+ or WI8 to find an FA in Rocky Mountain National Park... two things I'll never be able to do ;-)

October 28, 2007 ~ Pullin' Plastic

I've been back to the gym a couple of times now. It's interesting, I'm almost as strong as I ever was - I'm easily onsighting all the 5.9's and some 5.10's. The thing that's gone is my stamina - two or three hard routes and I'm spent. I wonder how long it'll take to get that back. I'll have to begin mixing in trying harder stuff with doing laps on easier stuff.

October 15, 2007 ~ I'm a Fat Slob

On Saturday I got together with a bunch of the usual suspects (and a couple of new ones) for some climbing at The Monastery. The Danimal showed up with a bunch of his college buddies who really showed us up - onsighting the classic Tabula Rasa (5.10c) and flying up lesser 5.8's and 9's.

I, on the other hand, was in less than stellar form. Over a month and a half of sitting on my butt drinking beer really showed. I hungdog my up a 5.8 and had to rest in the middle of Pandora's Pebble Pinching Party Palace (5.7) - both on toprope.

However, I am now inspired to regain some semblance of form. I reactivated my gym membership and will hopefully start hitting that regularly with Brian starting this week.

September 16, 2007 ~ New Climbing Partner

My son Jackson was born this past Wednesday! I can't wait until he's old enough to take up into the hills.

From what I've heard it takes 4-6 months for babies to have enough neck strength to hold their heads up in a backpack baby carrier. So hopefully by January/February we can start to do some light hikes down here around Fort Collins. If all goes well maybe we'll have everything figured out in time to do some more ambitious hiking by spring '08.

September 4, 2007 ~ Sunlight Spire

Although the attempt was over a month ago, Jeff Lord just recently published his Sunlight Spire Trip Report. They did not make the summit but gave it valiant effort and Jeff wrote a great trip report with lots of good photos.

Sunlight Spire is a 14,000 foot spire in the Needle Mountains (a sub range of the San Juan Mountains) just a quarter mile southeast of Sunlight Peak. Until recently it's elevation was thought to be 13,995' but a recent survey upgraded it to 14,000'. However, it doesn't meet the "rules" for being an official peak because it's too close to Sunlight Peak and it doesn't rise the requisite 300' above the saddle with Sunlight Peak. I'm sure most peak baggers are much relieved that it will never make the standard 14er list because it requires about 40' of 5.10 climbing up an overhanging handcrack splitting a blank wall.

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